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Pomaire, Chile's pottery village: what to do, giant empanadas and how to get there from Santiago

· By , journalist

Pomaire, Chile's pottery village: what to do, giant empanadas and how to get there from Santiago

Pomaire is a village of potters in the Melipilla municipality, 50 kilometres west of Santiago, famous for its reddish clay, its lucky clay pigs and its giant empanadas. It had 3,921 residents in the 2017 Census and its pottery tradition predates the arrival of the Spanish, according to Wikipedia. It is one of the easiest day trips from the capital: about an hour along the Autopista del Sol.

Pomaire in numbers
50Km west of Santiago
3,921Residents (2017 Census)
95%Women potters around 1950
550Kilos of the giant clay pig (2012)
Source: Wikipedia, with 2017 Census data
View the data as a table
Km west of Santiago50
Residents (2017 Census)3,921
Women potters around 195095%
Kilos of the giant clay pig (2012)550

What to do in Pomaire

  • Walk along Roberto Bravo street, the village's main street, with clay workshops and shops and most of the restaurants.
  • Buy clay straight from the maker: bowls, pots, planters and serving dishes. Most of the village's trade is run by the makers themselves, according to Wikipedia.
  • Look for the three-legged clay pigs, piggy banks that tradition says bring good luck.
  • Watch a potter at the wheel in the workshops open to the public.
  • Eat Chilean food: beef empanada, pastel de choclo (corn pie) in a clay dish and cazuela stew.
  • See the giant clay pig, 3 metres long and 550 kilos, made by artisan César Silva Rojo in 2012 and displayed at his workshop.
Three clay pigs, one reddish and two black, on the floor of a Pomaire workshop
Clay pigs at a Pomaire workshop. Photo: Penarc (CC BY-SA 3.0), Wikimedia Commons.

Pomaire clay: how it is made

Pomaire pottery has a reddish tone and a smooth, shiny surface. Black clay is dyed with smoke and fired in mud ovens at 600 to 800 degrees, which removes any smell or taste. Glazed pieces are also made today. Around 1950, 95% of the village's women worked as potters, which made them independent businesswomen, says Wikipedia.

The village has plenty of history: intendant Benjamín Vicuña Mackenna visited in 1874 and promoted its first school; Pablo Neruda found refuge there, and potters such as Rosa Astorga, Julita Vera and Olga Salinas, a friend of Gabriela Mistral, became known beyond Chile. It is all told in the book *Historia de Pomaire* (2012) by journalist Hernán Bustos Valdivia, cited by Wikipedia.

Five centuries of clay in Pomaire
  1. 1482Inca and Diaguita groups settle in the valley
  2. 1583The village moves to its current site, surrounded by clay hills
  3. 1742-1745Tomás Pomaire governs the village and gives it his name
  4. 1853Pottery caravans travel to Valparaíso and Lo Vásquez
  5. 195095% of the village's women work with clay
  6. 2012An artisan makes a 3-metre, 550-kilo clay pig
  7. 6 Oct 2026A fire destroys three homes and three shops in the centreAmong them, the San Pedro restaurant.
PieceWhat it is used for
Bowl or serving dishPastel de choclo and other baked dishes
Clay potCazuelas and stews
Pig piggy bankSaving and, by tradition, good luck (the three-legged ones)
Vessels and ornamentsDecoration

Where to eat in Pomaire

Pomaire has dozens of Chilean restaurants, almost all on Roberto Bravo, San Antonio and Roto Chileno streets. These are the most reviewed on Google Maps as of 14 November 2026; La Normita (4.9) and El Boliche (4.6) have the best ratings, with fewer reviews.

Pomaire's most-reviewed restaurantsSort by rating or number of reviews
Pomaire Gredas4.54,782
Restaurant San Antonio Casa de Campo4.54,003
Restaurant La Chingana de Pomaire4.31,691
El Parrón de Pomaire4.11,423
Restaurante La Fuente de mi Tierra4.51,231
Restaurant San Antonio Casa Colonial4.51,231
Restaurante La Greda4.01,215
Restaurant Los Naranjos3.71,097
Restaurant Los Secretos de Anita4.5926
Restaurant El Cototudo4.1849
El Boliche de Pomaire4.6731
La Normita Tenedor Libre4.9105
Source: ratings and reviews from Google Maps, checked on 14 November 2026

To give an idea of prices, the menu published by Restaurant San Antonio, which is celebrating 56 years, charges CLP 4,490 for a 150-gram baked beef empanada, 10,900 for the 800-gram giant empanada and 12,990 for pastel de choclo in a clay dish (checked on 14 November 2026).

What eating in Pomaire costs: one examplePrices on a traditional restaurant's menu, Chilean pesos
Source: menu of Restaurant San Antonio published on its website, checked on 14 November 2026
View the data as a table
Chilean pork$16,990
Beef cazuela$15,990
Pastel de choclo$12,990 · in a clay dish
Giant empanada$10,900 · beef, 800 g
Beef empanada$4,490 · baked, 150 g
Beef empanadas of different sizes, including a giant one, on plates at a Pomaire table
Typical Pomaire empanadas, including a giant one. Photo: Rjcastillo (CC BY-SA 4.0), Wikimedia Commons.

Note: in the early hours of 6 October 2026 a fire destroyed three homes and three businesses in central Pomaire, including the San Pedro restaurant, BioBioChile reported. The rest of the village is operating normally.

How to get to Pomaire from Santiago

ModeRouteTime and cost
CarAutopista del Sol (Route 78) towards Melipilla and turn-off to PomaireAbout 1 hour; 50 km according to Wikipedia (plus the motorway toll)
Bus + rural minibusBus from Terminal San Borja to Melipilla, then a rural minibus to Pomaire (Kupos)Santiago-Melipilla from CLP 2,000 to 3,000 (Kupos, 14 November 2026)

Pomaire pairs well with the wineries near Santiago or, following Route 78 to the coast, with Neruda's house at Isla Negra.

Pomaire in one day: suggested itinerary

  • 10:00 Leave Santiago on the Autopista del Sol; you will be in the village in an hour.
  • 11:00 Stroll Roberto Bravo street and its workshops, with time to watch a wheel and choose pieces.
  • 13:00 Lunch of Chilean food: empanada, pastel de choclo or cazuela. Arrive before 13:30 at weekends.
  • 15:00 Buy large clay pieces (pots, planters) last, so you do not carry them all day.
  • 16:30 Return to Santiago or detour to a valley winery or towards the coast on the same Route 78.

When to go to Pomaire

  • Weekends: the village is livelier, but there are more people and queues at restaurants at lunchtime.
  • Weekdays: quieter for visiting workshops and talking to the artisans.
  • Summer: strong midday heat; it is best to arrive in the morning.

Frequently asked questions

Where is Pomaire?

In the Melipilla municipality, Metropolitan Region, 50 km west of Santiago along the Autopista del Sol.

How much is an empanada in Pomaire?

It depends on the place. As a reference, on Restaurant San Antonio's menu the 150 g beef empanada costs CLP 4,490 and the 800 g giant one CLP 10,900 (November 2026).

What does the three-legged pig mean?

It is a clay piggy bank. According to the popular belief cited by Wikipedia, the three-legged ones bring good luck, which is why they are the village's best-selling souvenir.

Can you get to Pomaire by public transport?

Yes: bus from Terminal San Borja to Melipilla and from there a rural minibus to Pomaire. There is no direct bus with online sales.

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