Three in four visitors reaching the Chilean side of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field (Campos de Hielo Sur) enter from Argentina via the Marconi Pass, and the Chilean state charges them nothing: between 2021 and 2026, revenue was zero. The figures come from Chile's National Forestry Corporation (Conaf), which manages Bernardo O'Higgins National Park, and were reported by La Prensa Austral on November 1, 2026. Conaf counted 44 expeditions between 2016 and 2026, from 16 nationalities.
The issue combines expedition tourism with an undemarcated border area: the stretch between Mount Fitz Roy and Cerro Murallón has had no agreed boundary line between Chile and Argentina since the 1998 Agreement. This article focuses on what matters to visitors: how many go, where they enter, what is charged and which rules apply.
Conaf figures on Southern Patagonian Ice Field visitors
| Indicator | Figure | Source |
|---|---|---|
| Visitors entering from Argentina | 75% (via the Marconi Pass) | Conaf, via La Prensa Austral |
| Recorded expeditions 2016-2026 | 44, from 16 nationalities | Conaf |
| Argentines among visitors | 41.9% | Conaf |
| Chileans among visitors | 25.2% | Conaf |
| Expeditions and people in 2024 | 2 expeditions, 7 people | Conaf |
| Expeditions and people in 2025 | 22 expeditions, 65 people | Conaf |
| Revenue 2021-2026 | CLP 0 | Conaf |
| Conaf-accredited guides for the route | 29 | Conaf |
Source: Conaf report cited by La Prensa Austral (November 1, 2026). The jump in 2025 coincides with an online registration form and a police presence at the refuge. The report's own totals do not match: the yearly sum gives 145 people, the nationality breakdown 150 and the summary 155, and Conaf acknowledges that "there was no single consolidated register."
Where visitors enter the Southern Patagonian Ice Field
75% of expeditions enter via the Marconi Pass, from El Chaltén (Argentina); the rest set out from Villa O'Higgins or Candelario Mansilla in Chile's Aysén Region. Chile's border agency (Difrol) says Marconi is "the only bilaterally authorized border crossing" in the area, while the PDI police said it has no official records of entries or exits through that pass. Checks are carried out by the Carabineros post at Candelario Mansilla.
| Access | From | Share of expeditions | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Marconi Pass | El Chaltén (Argentina) | 75% | The 2002 bilateral agreement requires 72 hours' prior notice |
| Villa O'Higgins | Aysén (Chile), end of the Carretera Austral | Part of the remaining 25% | Registration and authorization required |
| Candelario Mansilla | Aysén (Chile), south shore of Lake O'Higgins | Part of the remaining 25% | Carabineros post |
Since October 2023, Difrol has authorized 25 groups and 90 people. Seven of those expeditions (36 people) took place between August and November, when there are no police at the refuge. Reaching it from the Chilean side means traveling to the end of the Carretera Austral, past places such as Caleta Tortel.
How much a Southern Patagonian Ice Field traverse costs
Chile charges nothing to enter, use or stay overnight at the Eduardo García Soto refuge, installed in 2004 by the Chilean Ice Field Institute, although registration and prior authorization are required. Agencies do charge: El Magallanes reviewed nine commercial offers, eight departing from the Argentine side, and none mentioned the 72-hour notice or Chilean permits. In Argentine offers the refuge appears as "Gorra Blanca."
| Offer or cost | Amount | Source |
|---|---|---|
| 8-day, ~100 km traverse (American Alpine Institute) | US$3,950 per person, groups of 2 or more | La Prensa Austral |
| Another published traverse | US$3,200 | La Prensa Austral |
| Night at the refuge quoted by an El Chaltén agency | US$150 | Pablo Longueira, via La Prensa Austral |
| Conaf entry or overnight fee | No fee | Conaf |
Former minister Pablo Longueira wrote in El Mercurio on September 21 that "the Argentines are selling our refuge." Since 2025, Conaf has told groups that the refuge is occupied by police and park rangers and that they must bring a tent. Between 2017 and 2021, the Paso Marconi program spent 685 million pesos from Aysén's regional development fund on domes, guide training and sanitary kits.
What to know before visiting the Southern Patagonian Ice Field
- It is a high-mountain expedition, not a hike: you cross the ice for days with technical gear and a guide.
- Registration and prior authorization are mandatory, even without a fee, and the Marconi Pass requires 72 hours' notice.
- High season starts in December. Between August and November there are no police at the refuge.
- Bring a tent: the refuge may be occupied by state personnel.
- Choose Conaf-accredited guides for the route (there are 29).
The Southern Ice Field feeds several of Chile's largest glaciers, such as Pío XI, and lies within Bernardo O'Higgins National Park, one of the largest national parks in the country.
Frequently asked questions
How much does it cost to enter the Southern Patagonian Ice Field from Chile?
Nothing. Conaf charges no entry, use or overnight fee at the refuge, but requires registration and prior authorization.
Where do visitors enter the ice field?
75% enter via the Marconi Pass from El Chaltén (Argentina); the rest start from Villa O'Higgins or Candelario Mansilla in Aysén.
How many people visit the Southern Patagonian Ice Field?
Very few: Conaf recorded 22 expeditions and 65 people in 2025, and 44 expeditions between 2016 and 2026.
Which national park protects the Southern Ice Field?
Bernardo O'Higgins National Park, managed by Conaf, in the Aysén and Magallanes regions.
